After the bling and glitz of yesterday’s visit to Graceland, todays first port of call was a little more sombre, the National Civil Rights Museum. This is housed in the old Lorraine Motel, the location of Martin Luther King’s murder almost exactly 51 years ago.
The museum starts with the story of the horrific conditions on the slave ships that transported millions of Africans across the ocean in the largest forced migration in history. It continues through the Civil War highlighting the fact that Abraham Lincoln mainly supported emanicpation for military rather than social ends. At the end of the conflict many thought that equal rights had been gained but this was far from the truth with the introduction of the so-called “Jim Crow” laws . These brought in segregation into many aspects of American life including education, transport and employment.
The rest of the museum then concentrated on the fight for equal rights in each of these areas, with exhibits featuring Rosa Parks….
……the burning of the buses in Alabama…….
…..the riots in Selma and finally the sanitation strike in Memphis that brought Martin Luther King to the city. The famous “I Am a Man” march.
It was here that on April 4th 1968 the Revd King stepped out on his balcony prior to attending a meeting of the strikers that a shot rang out from across the road and killed him.
The wreath being placed on the balcony two days ago to mark the anniversary. The museum continues in the building where the shooter took that fatal shot. In this part of the exhibition the story of the investigation and subsequent capture of the killer is told.
The whole museum is extreemly well put together and really focuses the mind on the conditions and poor treatment experienced by African Americans. Many of the events highlighted happened during my lifetime and I am always amazed how people can treat fellow humans so badly. Unfortunately so much of this continues today.
If you are ever in Memphis and only have time to go to one museum, this is the one you should not miss.
Opposite the Civil Rights Museum is a small museum that celebrates African American culture, the Blues Hall of Fame.
The blues grew from the cotton fields and slave plantations before being transported to the cities and this small but well curated museum honours many of the great names of the genre. These include two of my heroes Robert Johnson and of course Eric Clapton. We will be seeing more of the blues later in our trip but this gave us a small taster.
Talking of tasters it was now lunch time. When we were on our last cruise we had dinner with a family from Tennessee and they recommended the BBQ at the Rendezvous, so that would be todays destination.
Located down a small back road off Main Street, the restaurant was busy but very efficent in serving us with a pulled pork plate, piled high with meat together with bread rolls and sides of beans,slaw and potato salad. A satisfying meal for both of us.
We next proceeded to the Cotton Museum, another small museum concentrating on the story of the principal crop if the region. Once again the link with the slave trade being an important aspect of the story.
The weather today was glorious and we made our way down to walk along the banks of the Mississippi. The trees in bloom making yet another photo oppurtunity.
The city of Memphis shares its name with an ancient Egyptian city, it is therefore fitting that a large pyramid should have pride of place.
Inside this pyramid however are no relics of ancient pharoahs but more a celebration of modern America namely hunting, shooting and fishing. It also houses a large hotel, large fish pools, an alligator lake and some tasteful furniture and fittings.
In the centre of the structure a lift takes you up to a viewing platform with superb views over the city and the mighty Mississippi.
A very busy, thoughtful but enjoyable day.